Paco Rabanne gave a head-start of their Fall Read-To-Wear collection led by the creative direction of Julien Dossena. The show was the brand’s first to be presented in front of a live audience after three seasons of a digital Paris Fashion Week due to pandemic measures. Dossena proves once again how fashion can be reinvented and tailored to the present times while still honouring the brand’s homage from the ’60s.
The show took place on the eve of Haute Couture Fashion Week at the Palais de Tokyo. Coloured lights in pink and purple set the lively yet meditating atmosphere of the show and the collection. Peplum, pouffe skirts and the brand’s signature chainmail were all incorporated in a provocative yet sleek way, creating excitement for the opening up of the fashion world again. Elements of the ’60s and 80’s such as balloon sleeves, cinched waists and balloon skirts were playfully integrated in a futuristic manner to create a “balance between conceptual and radical” as Dossena says.
A big moment for Paco Rabanne for the FW22-23 collection was rediscovering the mesh material, used frequently by the brand in the past. Mesh and knit were used simultaneously in short dresses to create a beautiful contrast of bare skin and textured materials. The colour palette of the collection featured pale pastels, glistening metallics and monochrome. Paco Rabanne explores the use of textures and materials in a young, contemporary manner using signature techniques and materials such as metal and plastic.
The brand revolutionised the use of unconventional materials in the 60’s and has since been utilising them to create modern fashion pieces for the woman of the 21st century. “When I think of Paco Rabanne, I don’t think retro – I think revolution, rebellion and renaissance,” Julien Dossena shares his vision for the French Maison.
Written by: Kalina Magureva – Fashion Writer | British Thoughts