“Keeping up with the times, Artistic director of Azzaro, Olivier Theyskens brings out a collection that aims to live up to the times by creating fluid and androgynous pieces don’t adhere to gender constructs”
Olivier Theyskens sought to evoke a ‘new future’ by creating minimalist statement looks for Azzaro’s 2022 Spring Collection. He explores a fluid and androgynous style that experiments with sequins and crystals. The show is set against the backdrop of an urban rooftop with giant white metallic pillars and real plants that allow for a very futuristic feel.
Carefully sewn and crafted with relaxed cuts, oversized volumes and ample shoulders, Theyskens ensures mixed and controlled tailoring that juxtaposes the velvety textures and iridescent technical material with the timelessness of the look. The tailoring throws light on the House’s iconic long dresses that seek to remain fluid and emancipate themselves from gender constructs.
The suits are intricately embroidered and are worn over a freely unbuttoned fluid satin shirt or a vinyl turtleneck shirt to create a simple contrast. The suits are embellished with iridescent or mother of pearl sequins, sprinkled with a shower of crystals or in hypnotic reflective variants. Very dear to Loris Azzaro himself, the long dresses that fall perfectly with deep v cuts adhere to the consistent fluid theme that aims to evoke a sense of quiet seduction.
Embellished straps that adorn the shoulders and cuffs with crystals highlight the décolleté of a vaporous dress in subtly transparent voile. Theyskens suggests an underlying sensuality as he ensures a skilful balance of cut-outs and draping in every look.
From the embellished, sequined and metallic yet simple suits paired with matching pants in faded shades to the long fluid silvery dresses that fit the body perfectly, Olivier Theyskens creates glamourous and timeless pieces that go beyond the constructs of gender. He adds that this collection aims to give Azzaro a renewed sense of identity that uses free and assertive language through their work that aimed to resonate with the times.
Prerana Bandi – Contributing Writer | British Thoughts
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